Lifestyle | Travel
By Coco Marett
Aug 14, 2024
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From haute cuisine to the hottest bars, here's your guide to making the most of 48 hours in Bangkok
Bangkok is a city of dualities—from quintessential luxury to a burgeoning creative scene; some of Asia's most coveted fine dining restaurants to smokey street markets; ancient, sacred traditions to a new generation that’s transforming Thai culture to make it uniquely theirs.
In short, it’s hard not to fall in love with Bangkok.
Our 48 hour guide to Bangkok captures the best of the city—at times sidestepping the obvious to show you a side of the Siam capital you’ve maybe never seen before. Like a young chef inspired by recipes served during the reign of King Rama II, or a cool bar outside of Chinatown where Thai instruments play a mix of traditional tunes and today's hits.
See also: What to do in Krabi in 48 hours
Day 1:
Check in at The Siam
When Thai actor and singer Krissada Sukosol Clapp inherited a plot of prime riverside land in 2005, he commissioned architect Bill Bensley to transform it into The Siam, a 39-suite- and-villa boutique hotel. Bensley’s signature palate of black and white lays a contemporary canvas for Clapp’s personal antique collection, which transports guests to Bangkok’s most decadent period—that of King Rama V.
Take a dip in the infinity pool, listen to records in the atrium-style vinyl room—the collection features everything from jazz greats to Bob Marley and Madonna—or relax at the Opium Spa.
On top of traditional services like facials and massages, Opium Spa offers guests the unique experience of receiving a sak yan tattoo. The sacred 2,000-year-old Thai ritual is said to impart magical powers for luck, protection, charisma and fortune to the wearer.
Tatler tip: We love The Siam’s 1,400 sq ft Riverside Pool Villa. Housed in a townhouse-style heritage building, this standalone gem features a courtyard with a private pool, plus a terrace overlooking the Chao Phraya River.
Indulge in authentic Thai cuisine at Samrub Samrub Thai
Chef Prin Polsuk honed his craft under the esteemed David Thompson of Aksorn fame. Now, his restaurant
is one of the most coveted in the city. The menu is refreshed every two months; Polsuk draws inspiration from his collection of ancient cookbooks, which contain recipes served to Thai royalty during the reign of King Rama II (1809-1824), and lesser- known dishes from small communities and tribes from around Thailand.
Tatler tip: Book a seat at the counter, where Polsuk often engages with his guests, proudly showcasing his cookbooks over a glass of banana liqueur.
... or at Potong
If you fancy something fancier, head to this Michelin-starred Thai Chinese fine-dining restaurant located in a historic 120-year-old building in Bangkok’s Chinatown.
Founded by Chef Pichaya “Pam” Utharntharm, a night at Potong is a unique and personal dining experience—after all, her family has been practising traditional Chinese medicine in the same building for four generations.
Dining here is a 20-course journey that explores chef Pam’s heritage—she learnt to cook from her mother—and her five-element philosophy of “salt, acid, spice, texture and Maillard reaction”.
Highlights include her intricate take on Peking duck, and the “yin-yang noodle” dish which draws inspiration from a Chinese- Thai classic, rad nah.
Day 2: Tap into Bangkok's creative scene
Breakfast at Chon Thai
Hotel breakfasts can feel a bit “dime a dozen”, but that’s not the case at Chon Thai at The Siam, which occupies two traditional Thai teak wood houses overlooking the Chao Phraya River. Thai and Western options are available; we recommend the former—particularly the khao mok gai, turmeric rice with grilled free-range chicken and ar jard sauce.
Admire the art at Warehouse 30
The latest in a string of rehabbed historical buildings along Charenkrung Road, Warehouse 30 is a formerly abandoned block
of Second World War-era warehouses that’s now home to art galleries, cafés and boutiques showcasing unique pieces by local designers and producers.
The space was reimagined by Duangrit Bunnag—one of Thailand’s most celebrated architects—who made a point of honouring the building’s original features, such as exposed beams and wood flooring.
The Siam Cruise at sunset
Back at The Siam, hop aboard the hotel’s private Sala Thai boat for sunset drinks and canapés as you cruise past such icons as the Grand Palace, Wat Arun, Chinatown and the Bangkok skyline.
Dinner at Jua, a modern izakaya in Bangkok
Taking over a three-storey building that was once a gambling house, Jua is a modern izakaya that brings the energy of Osaka’s back streets to Bangkok’s old town. The space was designed by Sean Dix, who also designed Hong Kong’s renowned yakitori joint Yardbird.
Jua’s skewers and creative shareable dishes—the chicken tail skewer, and grilled tiger prawn with garlic or durian butter are favourites—pair nicely with its drinks list of artisanal sake, natural wines and co*cktails crafted from small- batch spirits.
Tatler tip: Jua’s off-menu miso clam soup is divine—be sure to ask your waiter if it’s available.
Bar hopping at Soi Nana
Soi Nana is a pocket of neon-lit alleyways on the fringes of Chinatown. The neighbourhood is great for a bar-hop; these are our picks.
Tep Bar, in a restored two- storey shophouse, comes alive at night with the sounds of traditional instruments playing classic Thai songs and the occasional pop cover. co*cktails are made using local spirits, Thai herbs and seasonal fruits.
You’ve probably heard of Teens of Thailand—loud and lively, it’s the country’s first truly dedicated gin bar. Its nearby sister bar Asia Today is a quieter, less gin-centric option. Both serve excellent co*cktails, despite Asia Today’s cheeky neon sign that reads “This bar is better than Teens of Thailand”. There's nothing like a bit of sibling rivalry.
New on the block is God, serving innovative co*cktail-and-bite pairings in a cathedral-inspired setting with stained glass and soaring ceilings.
Finally, Wallflower Upstairs is a shy rooftop bar that sits above a florist in a corner building draped in creeping vines. Their co*cktails focus on floral, fruity flavours inspired by a garden theme.
Day 3: Bangkok classics—a floating market and street food
Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market
Once upon a time in Bangkok, when the waterways still served as main transportation routes—the Thai capital
was nicknamed “the Venice of Asia”—markets were set up on the water in the mornings, and you could buy fresh produce and made-to-order dishes from small wooden row boats.
Few remain today, but you can still enjoy Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market. Located on the outskirts of Bangkok, this market boasts a more authentic experience as it is mostly visited by locals.
Street food favourites at Banthat Thong
Finish the weekend strong with a day in Banthat Thong. Once a sleepy district with little other than motorcycle repair shops, local convenience stores and wholesale offices, Banthat Thong has emerged as one of Bangkok’s coolest neighbourhoods without losing touch with its humble beginnings.
The real draw here is the food—namely Thai and Chinese street food at family-run eateries known and loved by locals for up
to three generations. Try Jeh O, which serves Thai favourite Mama noodles in a creamy tom yum base loaded with fresh toppings; Tung Chae Tao Tan, whose pad see ew—flat noodles stir-fried with pork, vegetables and fermented soy sauce—has kept families coming back for over 60 years; and Ming Pochana, which has specialised in satay skewers for more than half a century
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